Beginners Building Toolkit

 In this post we'll cover the set of tools everyone needs in their model builders toolkit to get started.

Core Toolkit 

Clippers

While you could get by using a X-Acto knife for both cleaning up models and the initial step of cutting them from the sprue, it's safer and easier to buy some clippers. There are expensive clippers out of Japan specifically for models, and while they have their fans, I've yet to find a consistent glowing endorsement.

What you need are "flush cut" clippers typically found in the electronics section of hardware stores. You could also buy a pair from a miniatures brand, and I actually rather like the larger handle size of Games Workshop's extremely over priced pair. The key factor is that one side of the clippers is completely flat.

 

As you can see in my terrible diagram below, flush cut clippers will cut nice and close to the part you want to keep, while regular clippers have a bevel on both sides and will leave a substantial nub because they simply can't get close enough to the part. 

Left: flush cut clippers, right: regular beveled clippers.

Something to remove mold lines

You'll notice as you build your models that there are sometimes fine, sometimes very obvious, lines where the two halve of the mold came together and a little plastic squeezed its way between them. These are called mold lines, or you may also sometimes hear it called "flash."

You don't have to remove these. If you're purely into the gaming side of things, I wouldn't even worry about them, it'll only delay getting your models to the table. However if you want to produce the cleanest look, you'll want to scrap these lines off.

What tool you use really depends on your age. If you can be trusted with an X-Acto knife it's definitely my preferred tool. Sometimes there are little nubs left from clipping and the X-Acto knife can easily scrap off mold lines and cut off these little nubs. Rather than buying brand named blades, alternatives can be found much more cheaply from a variety of sources.

 

X-Acto knife

 

If you're not safe with a sharp knife, a specialty mold line remover like the one from Games Workshop is a good option. It can't quite get into all the tight spaces, but it's simply a thin squared piece of metal where the hard right angles serve as the scraping tool.

 

Finally, fine sandpaper is also a good option. I typically use 800 grit and above. Sandpaper can be torn or cut into workable small pieces that you can get into pretty much every crevice of the model.

Whatever you use, be aware that inhaling resin dust and particles is extremely bad for your health. If you're working with resin miniatures, I strongly advise you wear a certified N95 or better mask during this cleaning step, try and work in a well ventilated area, run an air purifier, and vacuum the area once you're done. While we may only get exposed to small amounts at a time, a lifetime in the hobby adds up to a meaningful amount of exposure.

Glue

There are two types of glue used in building miniatures. The first option, that can be used regardless of what your miniature is made from, is super glue. If you're new to the hobby what you may not be familiar with is that super glue comes in a variety of thicknesses. The super glue you find in most stationary stores is extremely thin and you'll glue your fingers to the model and themselves if you try and use it. Instead, a medium thickness super glue works extremely well for miniatures. A tiny dab of it will sit exactly where you place it and fix the parts together almost on contact.

This is however also the big drawback of super glue: it sets fast. If you don't have the pieces lined up well the first time, you might be stuck with a wonky model. This brings us on to the second option: plastic cement. It's important to note that plastic cement only works on polystyrene plastic. You'd be most familiar with polystyrene from it's "expanded" version, the firm white molded foam used to package TVs and other delicate electronics. In it's non-expanded form, it's an extremely popular material for making miniatures.

Plastic cement actually melts the plastic, so you have to be careful not to make a mess with it. On the plus side, it has a longer working time than super glue and once dried, the two pieces of plastic are fused into a single piece.

Bonus Items

You can get by without the following items, but they may make your life easier. I would especially recommend the cutting mat to protect whatever surface is underneath, but you can get by with an old magazine to protect your table.

• Tweezers; sometimes we're working with extremely small pieces and need to place them in awkward places that we (or at least my fat fingers) can't reach. I like the tweezers that hold themselves closed and you press to release.
  
• Clamps; these are really for building larger models like tanks or planes. Having some small clamps around can free up your hands while the glue sets large pieces together.
  
• Pin vise; these tiny drills have a variety of uses. Many people like to drill out barrels on guns to make them look more realistic. You'll also need a pin vise for more advanced techniques like pinning and magnetization. It's definitely not critical for a beginners set though.
  
• Cutting mat; certainly you want something to protect your parents'/partner's dinner table from glue and knife marks. A good cutting mat is inexpensive and will last you forever.